A perky snapshot of young Paris, La Perle is an unmodernised 1970s café/tabac that’s been colonised by the cool kids but manages to retain a neighbourhood feel. It’s at its most approachable in the mornings or on Sunday afternoon, but you’ll have better fun if you include it on a Marais bar-crawl or stop by for a glass of (excellent) wine after an afternoon’s shopping.

La Perle’s decor is astonishingly retro, with orange Formica walls, cube tables, Formica-veneered bar and booths at the back.

The crowd is young, hot and talented/ambitious: actors, models, next big things, spillingly prettily onto the pavement in summer. Snacks are served, including, admirably, waffles with Nutella.