La Verre Volé
One for the purists, La Verre Volé is a temple to organic wines, aka a cave à manger, which sounds much nicer than ‘off-licence you can eat in’. It’s homely and to-the-point, and gives the distinct impression that profit isn’t foremost in the owner’s mind. The set-up is as follows: turn up, wait for a table if you forgot to reserve -there’s only room for two dozen oenophiles- then drink vins naturels by the glass or get stuck into any bottle from the outstanding retail selection lining the walls (?6 corkage). You have to eat, for licencing reasons, but that’s no hardship. Excellent sausages, charcuterie, cheese, oysters, etc, are brought in from the best local traiteurs. The retail side is healthy, to say the least; the door flies open every few minutes, as someone nips in to grab a bottle of Gigondas to take home for supper. NB: if you come early, you’re more likely to get a walk-in.