Why is L’Armagnac regularly packed while the more picturesque bistro around the corner, Chardenoux (1 rue Jules Valles, tel: 01 43 71 49 52), once used as a film set by Hitchcock, remains half empty? Perhaps with its low-volume dance music and dim lighting, it’s simply less uptight and more inviting to a young drinking crowd attracted by the reasonably priced wines and beer. If you opt to eat at all, go for the handsome planches of cheese and charcuterie, magnificent croques and huge salads.

The space, crammed with tables, is delineated by large Art Nouveau French windows, which can open up wide during the summer months. The eclectic décor adds to the relaxed atmosphere – snooker cues decorate one wall (although there’s sadly no table to play on), and there’s a small, curved banquette that has a magazine mural that’s so old and faded it’s hard to tell what it actually is.