Those who live for pure retro may gasp with pleasure when they set eyes on the red and cream 1950s interior – the real thing – of Le Rubis. The vintage light fittings, diner stools and wall-mounted wine list are all original, though the staff look far from likely to burst into a chorus of ‘Beauty School Drop-out’.

It’s right on the cusp between the 1st and 2nd arrondissements, and serves a loyal clientele of regulars for Poilâne sandwiches and omelettes at lunchtime, and creative-industry locals later on.

The appeal of this quirky, restrained little wine bar isn’t based on nostalgia alone; it specialises in Loire and Beaujolais wines, with big-time Beaujolais Nouveau celebrations taking place in November, when the party spills out onto the street.