Along with the nearby Bar du Marché, Les Étages is another popular choice with the 6th arrondissement in-crowd, who fill the small, circular, multicoloured seats that resemble makeshift drum-kits or oversized bottle tops on the terrace.

The seating inside is more comfy, with white, low-sunk armchairs and low, round, red tables. The interior is small, intimate and full of character with bare, creaky floorboards and red walls. There’s an extensive cocktail list, but you don’t have to queue at the bar since there is table service.

The sister bar (35 rue Vieille-du-Temple, tel: 01 42 78 72 00; open daily, 3.30pm-2am) in the Marais follows the same formula, although on a larger scale.