A place of pilgrimage on the Ile St Louis, a fairytale come to life, presided over by eccentric chocolatière and poetess, Madame Sylvie Langlet. Her teashop is full to the brim with bemusing artefacts, carnival masks, witches on broomsticks, gnomes and marionettes (which come alive during her puppet shows every Wednesday, by reservation only). She has been serving her potent hot chocolate for more than 30 years at tables in the front room and tiny parlour; it is almost narcotic, and comes in a pretty jug, served with a glass of water. Home-made treats include a lightly spiced carrot cake with chocolate crust. If you ask to use the loo in the rear courtyard, you get to glimpse Madame’s magical chocolatey kitchen, where she makes her edible sculptures.