404, named nomadically after the antique Peugeot 404 (a legend in Morocco), is full of the off-kilter charm that’s virtually a trademark of its owner, Mourad Mazouz. Like his Momo in London, it’s an uncomplicated but celebtastic North African eatery with something of a party atmosphere by night, and a fun next-door neighbour in cocktail bar Andy Wahloo, where you can continue on the mojitos, post-tagine. 404 is small, dark and cosy, a Berber cave with bare stone walls, imported carvings and lanterns, and waiters who give it lots of cheerful energy. Everything on the traditional menu is terrific, with the fish tagine and the couscous méchoui, aka Maghrebi-style roast lamb, our most-wanted; Moroccan wines are expertly chosen and definitely worth investigating. See also Derrière.