A touch of class in the otherwise grungy area of the 20th arrondissement, on a quaint cobbled street down from the church of Saint Blaise, the all-black Café Noir is where the in-crowd of serious foodies come to eat. The seasonal menu focuses on revamped traditional French cuisine with eclectic combinations of spices and vegetables – the robust, winterly dishes include aubergine cassoulets, duck breasts with honey and lavender and cardamom mash. The setting couldn’t be more authentically Parisian bistro; a chaotic jumble of bric-à-brac (including an old motorbike) surrounds the diners, while cacti and an impressive collection of coffee makers dress the windowsills. A multitude of hats and helmets hang from the walls alongside 19th-century posters advertising long-gone brands of drink and old sepia photographs. The flirty staff are unpretentious and fun. Café Noir is a great place for lunch before embarking on the massive Père-Lachaise cemetery, or for dinner before hitting hip club La Flèche d’Or just around the corner.