Fancy poncy places like Georges rule, in a way that rustic-chic bistros can’t. That is because the sexy staff, the futuretastic design, the top-of-the-world location and, of course, the gastronomic concept (check out the cinematic titles of the good but not sensational Asian-fusion food) are not of this world. Get ready for slight aloofness from the waiters as you ascend via the transparent tubes, then hold your own among the glossy pods, and you’ll have a terrific time, consuming California rolls, tuna tartare, steak and cocktails. Finally, don’t approach the restaurant from the front of the Pompidou Centre (the way in is round the other side). In fact, don’t approach it in the dark on an empty stomach unless you kind of know where you’re going – falling over and hurting your knee among the Beaubourg’s health-and-safety-flouting architectural trappings is not glamorous.