Plain looks, precious few concessions to anything resembling service, and daily queues at lunchtime – yet this noodle canteen comes avidly recommended. You won’t wait long, since the brow-mopping, wok-jerking chefs do their thing at lightning speed, plus there are three rooms to accommodate the peaktime horde of hungry workers – it’ll be your go before you can say ‘where are my dumplings?’. Noisy and steamy, it makes a nice, clean change from steak, saucisson and St Marcellin; whether you ask for meat, seafood or vegetables, you ought to walk away feeling wholesome and energised. There are several similarly styled pitstops on the same drag, but this is the top choice for an appetite-slaying bowl of tip-top-value sustenance.