Brand-new when we visited, this self-proclaimed ‘modern brasserie’ is owned by the nightlife promoters known as La Clique, who have become quasi-celebrities with the success of their clubs Paris, Paris, Le Baron and Le Régine. But never mind the hype, the models, the pedigree – is it any good? In terms of cuisine, style and good times, definitely yes, though the service is glacially slow; we ate eggy, substantial mackerel tartare, tender beef cheek with sauce vierge, and simple, lovely turbot with endives. The dining room is impressively big and rigorously undesigned. There’s no art, just red banquettes, white tablecloths and fresh flowers. It’ll be interesting to see how it goes here once the pretty young things have moved on. If you ask us, La Fidelité ought to be a hit on the strength of its deconstructed millefeuille alone.