This assured Marais bistro is just off Place des Vosges, the oldest square in Paris, and has a businesslike charm. It is small, verging on cramped, with a beamed ceiling, and a corner decorated with portraits of various enigmatic women; the service can be a bit clunky, yet it’s packed out every lunchtime with art dealers and lawyers, who know a good-value thing when they find it. The little open kitchen turns out contemporary bistro food with Asian touches, such as pollock with dill-scented beurre blanc, or raw tuna with Thai sauce. Agreeably un-touristy, given the location.