Proudly presented at well-spaced, white-draped tables in a palatial Second Empire dining room, an historic Champs Elysées site where Napoleon Bonaparte famously dined with Josephine, Christian Le Squer’s extraordinary food is a major modern thrill. It is at the odder end of experimental, with even the amazing bread selection including squid-ink prawn rolls. Playful amuse-gueules such as liquid-centred foie gras croquettes and beetroot macaroons, and pre-dessert teasers of tiny skewered marshmallows and toffee apples filled with Granny Smith sorbet give an idea of the deftness and brilliance of the chefs. You might eat veal with herb and rocket cannelloni or game terrine with gold-leafed savoury jelly, then turbot served with truffled Ratte potatoes, followed by the most sublime millefeuille or passionfruit and pineapple soufflé. The service is of the ‘safety in numbers’ school, with extras in every scene. At 88 Euro, the set lunch menu is outstanding value for three-Michelin-star food.