Septime has certainly attracted some high-wattage talent since its opening. Young chef Bertrand Grébaut, who worked at three Michelin-starred L’Arpège before earning his own star at L’Agapé, has brought his considerable accolades to the project. The restaurant is also said to be a favourite of Jay-Z and Beyonce, which is a different kind of stamp of approval. What all parties can agree upon, though, is that the food at Septime is something extraordinary. Set in a spare, rustic-chic dining room that evokes a vacation home more than a stuffy hotel restaurant, the bistrot’s ever-changing five-course menu captures the best of seasonal ingredients, balanced together in playful and challenging combinations. Dishes are sparsely described (“Line-Caught Tuna/Raspberries/Tomato Water”), which makes for tableside surprises. In the new wave of France’s democratising Le Fooding movement, Septime plays a starring role – though booking a table first is definitely advised.