You can’t have everything, and what Paris hasn’t got are many central green spaces. On the edge of the city, the Bois de Boulogne (to the west) and Bois de Vincennes (to the east) are three and four times bigger than Hyde Park respectively. The Jardin des Tuileries is an elegant promenade with bronzes, ponds and a summer funfair, between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde. Historically the king’s medicine cupboard, the Jardin des Plantes in the 5th arrondissement, has winter gardens, alpine gardens and rose gardens, as well as tropical greenhouses. The biggest park within the city limits, the Jardin de Luxembourg is a 60-acre playground for le tout Paris, and particularly frolicsome for families. Sitting on the the grass is forbidden (and they’re watching you!), but there are plenty of cast-iron benches among the formal terraces, parterres and English gardens. Another favourite fresh-air spot is the Parc des Buttes Chaumont in the 19th, wild and steep, with intriguing paths, waterfalls and fine views.