Hg2 : The Hedonist

A Hedonist’s guide to…

Rome

Vizi Capitali
Don't be put off by the incongruous-looking sign over the door, which gives you the impression that you're about to enter an Eighties steakhouse - this is a genuine find amid the rather mediocre Trastevere tourist trattorie.
Taverna Angelica
This is a decent choice in the lost corner of Borgo Pio - an area that predominantly caters to the touristy backwash of Vatican visitors with unconvincing cuisine.
Rivendita
Chocolates, coffee, wine and books all have their individual merits but when all four combine in one of the coolest boho spots in the city it makes for sheer indulgence.
Rashomon Club
In the buzzy Ostiense club scene, the Rashomon club offers good electro-rock, new wave, techno and indie music, as well as live gigs with performers such as Dix
Radisson Blu es
When it first opened in 2002, this huge Schrager-esque monolith behind Termini station caused ripples through Rome's fashion set.
Pupina
This bistro, with its white wicker chairs, lovely lighting and touches of blue and red, has a fresh and bright, almost French feeling.
Pierluigi
Pierluigi caters to the dreams of those seeking a picture-postcard Roman holiday, and indeed everyone seems to have a soft spot for this dependable restaurant.
Obikà
Considered to be the first mozzarella bar in the world, Obika' serves soft, succulent mozzarella di bufala fresh every day from Campania in a variety of incarna
Necci dal 1924
Despite undergoing a dramatic refurbishment, Necci dal 1924 still retains the flavour of the days when artists such as film director Pier Paolo Pasolini hung out in the neighbourhood getting inspired and making history.
Micca Club
Micca Club is testament to the cultural expansion of the former no man's land flanking Termini around Piazza Vittorio.
Max & Co.
Easy on the eyes and easy on the wallet, Max & Co. is worth a visit.
MAC
Be dazzled by colour and quality at this US cosmetics store.
Locarno
Go for the Venetian suite in this shabby Art Deco favourite.
La Cabala
This former 1970s boogie nights beat-box has reopened to Centro Storico revellers with rather startling success.
L’Arcangelo
Sommelier and owner Arcangelo Dandini opened this elegant trattoria at the end of 2003 with his wife Stefania, and has since received great acclaim on account of Tuscan chef Fulvio Pierangelini's innovative takes on Roman cuisine.
Jackie O’
Once upon a time the covered walkway at Jackie O's entrance saw a catwalk of international celluloid stars from the 1960s and '70s shimmy through the gates and
Inn at the Spanish Steps
Slap bang in the middle of 'Bling Street', this popular residence couldn't be in a more suitable location for shopaholics.
Il Palazzetto
Il Palazzetto combines chic and luxuriant styling with wine courses and a secret lounge bar and library.
Il Margutta
This restaurant has been serving a fully vegetarian menu since its inception in 1979, which may account for the rather odd elevator-style background music.
Il Gelato di San Crispino
Unfortunately there are precious few reasons for visiting the Trevi fountain these days - it's a seething pit of sweaty crowds, rose-peddlers and tacky gift sho
Hotel Ponte Sisto
Hotel Ponte Sisto sits neatly on the edge of the river, just by the eponymous bridge, in a delectable restored Renaissance palazzo.
Hotel Adriano
A family business for over 40 years, and recently revamped by arbiter of style Barbara Ricci, the Hotel Adriano is certainly worthy of more stellar accolades than it has received.
Hogan
Hogan is the place if you fancy buying your own pair of bowling shoes. Why not get a new handbag as well while you're at it?
Green T
Upscale gourmet address serving Chinese high cuisine that follows traditional recipes bound to surprise even the most seasoned traveller and good enough to make you skip pasta for an entire evening.
Glass Hostaria
Glass Hostaria is a slice of civilised and contemporary restaurant dining in amongst the rowdy Trastevere tourist traffic.
Giulio Passami l’Olio
A veritable institution in the golden triangle of hotspots behind the detritus of tourism around Piazza Navona.
Giolitti
Despite the hordes that populate Rome's most famous gelateria, it's certainly worth queuing behind the sweaty crowds for this unadulterated ice-cream experience
GiNa
This sleek, fashionable eatery behind the claustrophobic Spanish Steps positively screams Chelsea and is frequented by a similar brigade of Pilates-honed and ex
Fabrizio Bulckaen
Fashionable and functional shoes at Fabrizio's.
Empresa
Calling all gentleman with style! Empresa is waiting for you...
El Spa
After an exhausting day of shopping enjoy an authentic Turkish treatment and a massage at El Spa.
Dobar
The Do has been in the same family for three generations and is a home from home for a colourful collection of extremely long-term regulars.
Degli Effetti
Spoilt for choice across the three stores of this Roman fashion giant.
Dal Bolognese
Traditional high-end Roman eaterie Dal Bolognese poses no surprises or edgy mystique, but sometimes there's more to life than gritty nouveau-chic.
Cul de Sac
An original classic. This contemporary Roman wine bar, opened in 1968, sees everyone, from footballers, design denizens and enthusiastic locals, pass through its doors.
Crossing Condotti
Not so much a hotel in the classic sense of the word as an elegantly furnished, superbly located townhouse apartment.
Costume National
Coin
Have a wander around this Italian department store and wonder at the wares within.
Classico Village
This former factory is one of Ostiense's most popular nightspots, which, with its restaurant, stage for live bands, club area and courtyard bar (that becomes particularly delectable in the summer), really does resemble a nocturnal village.
Città del Gusto
A veritable palace to food and wine.

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