Il Gelato di San Crispino
Forget what you think you know about ice cream and disregard the poor imitations that pepper nearly every Italian city; even in Rome there are only a handful of places worth sampling (see Ciampini and Giolitti). Il Gelato di San Crispino is notoriously tricky to find: proceed up Via del Tritone. till you get to the profumeria on the corner (with wigs in the window) and hook a left. Behind an unassuming door a cornucopia of fresh flavours and sorbets wait to change your opinion forever. It’s a lesson in ice cream, and don’t be alarmed by the sludgy colours (the pistachio flavour is grey rather than green). This is the watermark for determining the freshness, quality and absence of additives. Flavours change according to season, but the signature favourite is San Crispino, made from wild Sardinian honey.