The draw at the Pizzeria Montecarlo, other than the fact that it is one of the beloved local pizzerias in Rome, is the fantastic fritti (deep-fried courgette flowers oozing hot mozzarella), or the suppli (fried risotto balls stuffed with ragu or cheese). Pizza is of course thin and crispy alla romana and unequivocally delicious, to be consumed at the plastic garden tables slung outside on the shady vicolo. Service can be surly and brusque and you almost always have to wait for a table (especially in winter when there are fewer of them), but persevere and enjoy the traffic of Roman eccentrics. Cheap, cheerful and chaotic, it seems always to be open for a late-night feed, while lovers linger in clinches in the street outside.