Hg2 : The Hedonist

A Hedonist’s guide to…

Rome

Volpetti
Boisterous, bustling and fun, this is the ultimate Italian delicatessen experience in a rather more rustic part of town, so sign language may come in handy here
Visconti Palace
There's a slightly corporate feel to this huge hotel, but things are slowly changing.
Villa Farnesina
This villa was originally the holiday home for Renaissance playboy banker Agostino Chigi, built between 1508 and 1511 by Baldassare Peruzzi.
Villa del Priorato di Malta
Not a monument per se, but a hole around one and an oddity that attracts dozens of people everyday who queue to peek through a lock.
Via Sannio
This market may need you to morph into the Indiana Jones of shopping, prepared to tackle every obstacle and dig through every object mountain. But it will be worth it - there are some real discoveries to be made.
Vestiti Usati Cinzia
You don't need to sort the wheat from the chaff at this vintage boutique - it's all wonderful.
Vatican Museums
Despite the torrential flood of visitors and conditions that would have the EU up in arms if it were for the carriage of livestock, the Vatican museums are a definitive stop on Rome's cultural itinerary and home to the wondrous Sistine Chapel.
United Colours of Benetton
Who says high-street can't be high-profile?
Tutti Frutti
A real hidden gem in rustic, authentic Testaccio, Tutti Frutti is an artsy, informal and friendly dining spot.
Trevi Fountain
The Trevi fountain surprises most visitors on first glance because of its unexpectedly cramped quarters.
Tram Tram
Rooted in the bowels of San Lorenzo, Tram Tram was definitely born on the right side of the bohemian tracks.
Tiepolo
A relaxed and funky choice in Roma Nord, Tiepolo is a tourist-free zone, populated by a young and fashionable crowd who've clearly made this bistro part of their scene.
Stadio Olimpico
Take in a football match at the Stadio Olimpico and experience firsthand the passion the Italians feel for the beautiful game.
St Peter’s Basilica
St Peter's Basilica is nothing short of overwhelming and represents the temporal power of the Catholic Church on earth.
Sciam
Kitsch touches and a relaxing vibe with colourful characters, especially from the Ottoman carpet shop next door.
Santa Maria Maggiore
This is one of the earliest of all of Rome's basilicas, dating from the 3rd century.
Santa Maria in Trastevere
This church was one of the first Christian basilicas in Rome, possibly even the place where the first Christian mass was celebrated when Christianity was legalized in 313.
Santa Maria della Vittoria
Rather modest by baroque standards, this church near the Via Veneto houses one of Bernini's most notorious sculptures, the sensual Ecstasy of St Theresa (fourth chapel on the left).
Santa Maria del Popolo
 Despite the unassuming exterior, this church in the corner of the Piazza del Popolo is in fact a treasure-trove of masterpieces.
Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza
This little-visited and little-known church is a bombastic testament to architect and sculptor Borromini's creativity.
Sant’Eustachio
In a country lubricated by daily doses of caffeine, competition for supremacy is fierce, but many would vociferously argue that Sant'Eustachio boasts the best coffee in Rome.
San Luigi dei Francesi
This church serves the French community in Rome and is a convenient stop on the way to the Pantheon or Piazza Navona, or indeed after a coffee at caffeine mecca Sant'Eustachio.
San Anselmo
Set in the leafy environs of the Aventine, Hotel Sant'Anselmo offers sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Rosati
Once the haunt of intellectuals from Pasolini to Italo Calvino, this art nouveau café no longer fizzes with left-wing polemics, but its old-fashioned cocktails and teatime treats still make it a very civilized spot.
Relais Le Clarisse
This pint-sized hotel has just five simple rooms but ticks all the right boxes for comfort and location.
Primo al Pigneto
A stylish mix between a bistrot and a traditional osteria, Primo is hailed as one of the best restaurants in Pigneto, the new hotspot elected by the city's most alternative and knowledgeable crowds.
Porta Portese
Do not flee this flea market.
Pommidoro
A carnivorous choice of restaurant that pulses with proleteriat chic.
Pizzeria la Montecarlo
Along with Da Baffetto around the corner, and Da Francesco in Piazza del Fico, this rustic pizzeria is the third in the great pizza triumvirate around Piazza Na
Pastificio San Lorenzo
Set in a renovated old industrial building hosting exhibits, photo shootings and artistic events, this restaurant in the heart of San Lorenzo is one of Rome's best addresses for its upscale New York diner atmosphere with a Roman accent.
Pantheon
The emperor Hadrian's temple to the Roman deities is the oldest building in all of Rome, built between AD 119 and 128.
Palazzo delle Esposizioni
Sitting at the end of the busy Via Nazionale, just a few steps from Monti and Piazza Venezia, the white-marbled Palazzo delle Esposizioni is a large exhibition area, known especially for its photography shows.
Palazzo Barberini
This gargantuan baroque palace was commissioned by the Barberini pope Urban VIII and was originally completed in a zealous five years of labour.
Osteria Bonelli
Found in the Tor Pignattara area, Osteria Bonelli offers up generous and authentic Roman cuisine in its unassuming, unfailingly popular space.
Orto Botanico
The Orto Botanico occupies the gardens of the Palazzo Corsini, and was once the property of Queen Cristina of Sweden.
Ombre Rosse
Ombre Rosse will never be perennially cool or stylish, but it is reliable, the atmosphere is warm, the beer is cold and its location is without rival for whiling away a mellow evening in Trastevere.
Nonna Betta
Walking into Nonna Betta and being welcomed by owner Umberto Pavoncello makes you feel like you're entering a welcoming Jewish home in the heart of Rome.
Nailbar Gamax
Located on Via Giulia Nailbar has earned a fantastic reputation for making beautiful hands and nails an art form.
Mimì e Cocò
A friendly neighbourhood vibe permeates this cosy café, making it a welcome spot to stop for snack while vintage shopping on Via del Governo Vecchio.
MAXXI
Paintings, art installations, videos, sculptures and photographs are on display in this brand new museum, which has caused something of a stir since its opening in 2010.

Sign up for our newsletter

We'd love to keep you up-to-date with what's really going on around the world, from the hottest new restaurants and mind-blowingly beautiful hotels, to thumping underground clubs and world-class art galleries. Sign up to learn more - we promise you it'll be worth it...

X

Follow Us