Arancia Blu is one of the creative vegetarian restaurants in Rome but lacks the pretensions and anxiety often felt in other vegetarian-focused diners, and is surprisingly trendy given that until recently to be vegetarian in Italy marked you out as some sort of culinary leper. Hence the dream of chef and creator Fabio Bassano, who wanted to change the reputation of vegetarian food as a boring and punitive experience. Meat is replaced with lots of pastas, gnocchi and risottos, and the main courses incorporating vegetables in a meat substitute sort of way achieve their aim to varying degrees of success. Since it’s an enoteca the walls are of course laden with bottles, and the intelligentsia clientele may account for the ‘difficult jazz’ soundtrack. Oh and there’s a spectacular offering of rum and chocolate which makes for somewhat triumphant desserts. Not a good idea if you are avoiding carbs though.