Gusto is a multi-tasking, schizophrenic establishment by the mausoleum of
Augustus, it is one of the places to eat in Rome which simply can’t decide whether it’s a wine bar, restaurant,
bookshop or pizzeria. It is, in fact, all of the above (split-level), and moreover holds the mantle as grandfather of the new breed of Roman dining. The wine bar at the back is well suited to clandestine meetings and has a convivial air. Wines are served by the glass, alongside nibbles of cheese and meats in the stylish, brasserie-like setting. Upstairs the restaurant is a little more pretentious, attempting an Italian-Asian fusion with varying degrees of success. Weekend brunch is a riotous affair, with a vulture-like scrum over the delicious buffet. Arrive early to avoid disappointment, and remember you pay by the weight of food which, you’ll find when you reach the scales, can be quite alarming. It may be getting long in the tooth by contemporary standards, but Gusto shows no sign of stopping.