Hostaria dell’Orso is one of the restaurants in Rome which is not what it first appears. You enter through the atrociously cheesy piano bar and shimmy up the stairs to a rather formal restaurant that’s under the command of Milanese super-chef Gualtiero Marchesi. Although the staff are a touch supercilious, the orange leather seats and some conspicuous modern art seek to lighten the load a little. The food, however, speaks for itself and certainly reaches the mark of the prices. Try and secure a table on the loggia for romantic views, and if you fancy a bounce after dinner there’s popular nightclub La Cabala just upstairs.