The tiny Universal Cafe, outfitted with industrial-grade metal and wood gear, is one of those San Francisco cafes used with remarkable efficiency. A bentwood bench runs the length of one wall, with tables spaced along it. A tiny marble bar looks over the open kitchen. On sunny days and warm nights, outdoor tables fill up out front. It is a friendly, handsome scene populated with friendly, handsome people. Weekend brunch is pure pleasure, with dishes that go above and beyond the ordinary. At dinner, it often includes a grilled steak, well-composed salads, salmon, risotto, and pasta. The romance factor is high at Universal Cafe, where the crowd is couples or pairs of couples.