Boulevard is what all French restaurants in San Francisco want to be like, the epitomy of a French heaven. It first of relishes in its heavenly location: on a busy corner at the edge of the Financial District across from the Ferry Building and facing the water, in the view of Treasure Island and the Bay Bridge. It beckons with its Belle Epoque signage, evocative of one of Hector Guimard’s Paris Metro stops. Inside, the warm interior features lavish Art Nouveau-style details, plenty of dark woods, and a team of servers known for their poise and expertise. The dining room is large-145 seats-but still intimate enough to be romantic. The food is classic French, interpreted in the modern style. Look for succulent meats such as wood-oven-roasted rack of lamb, but also lighter California-style starters, such as Dungeness crab cakes. Haute cuisine in the French-New American style is rarely done better. Add perfectly unobtrusive service and an extensive wine list for celebrating deals, and you have a clear winner. Housed in the historic Audiffred Building, the interior is all dark woods, Belle Epoque details, tulip-shaped lamps, and floral motifs. Despite its location just off the Embarcadero, tourists tend not to end up here. Instead, look for local power players. Business lunchers opt for the tables on the east side of the room, many of which have bay views.