Chez Spencer, joining the list of San Francisco French restaurants but bringing the industrial style to it, seems to sink away into the brickwork. Look closely and you notice the sheltered front patio and the buzz of the pleasantly crowded little bar inside. Tucked into this industrial space is one of the best and most enjoyable French restaurants in town, which attracts a steady crowd of youngish hipsters (in the well-groomed sense) from all over the city. What looks tiny from the outside opens up to double-high ceilings and hunting-lodge rafters that make you want to order the pan-seared antelope, which is excellent. In the middle of the scene is the wood-burning oven, churning out perfect pizzas. At the back, another kitchen cranks out the rest of the French country fare.