Masa’s is one of those restaurants in San Francisco that provides for a formal dining experience of the sort that consistently merits a gold star in your long-term memory. The setting is elegant and refined, with a streak of modernism. Dark walls set off abstract artworks beautifully in the open dining room, where the ambiance is subdued and romantic but not terribly private. Expect multiple courses of perfectly rendered, exquisite French cuisine, an acclaimed wine list, an amuse-bouche or two, and glorious desserts. The tasting menu might include such delicacies as ahi tartare with gold leaf nori and curry oil, chilled foie gras with peach and lavender honey jam and Gewürztraminer gelée, or crab with tangerine and avocado with orange-infused oil. The wine collection harbors rare treasures. Created by acclaimed designer Orlando Diaz-Azcuy, the warm, chocolate-hued dining room with scarlet silk pendant lamps and rich toile-covered chairs is an inviting Parisian-style setting for a scrumptious French dinner. On a wine list with more than 1,000 selections, there’s room for all kinds of specialities, but the focus here is on local Cabernet Sauvignons and white Burgundies. For dessert, order a glass of 20-year-old Chateau d’Yquem, simply because you can.