Hg2 : The Hedonist

A Hedonist’s guide to…

Stockholm

Pontus!
More affordable than Pontus in the Greenhouse, this place is at its best on a warm evening when you can watch the Djurgården ferry chugging back and forth. Food and service are both excellent. Attracts a varied crowd, from tourists to locals to
Pelikan
High ceilings and large windows make this bar seem elegant and wise, with its lack of pretension, and decidedly mature aesthetic. This is the kind of place where you can duck in out of the rain, or meet for an afternoon drink ‰ÛÒ the candles on the tab
Inferno
Do you know Strindberg used to live here? You don't say...who was he again? Let's have another cocktail...
Hotellet
A perfect example of modern Swedish style. It does what it does with a confidence and flair, and of course attracts a particularly well-dressed and style-conscious clientele. The open garden makes it particularly popular in the summer.
Grodan
Grev Turegatan is one of the city's most fashionable streets, and Grodan is a perennial favourite for fashionable Stockholmers.
Gondolen
The view is the thing here, but the food is perfectly fine too. The crowd is largely businessmen or tourists, both drawn by the novely of the setting and staggering panorama. Gondolen is one of the few places in town where you can order good cocktail
Brasserie Godot
The patrons at Brasserie Godot tend to be a young professional crowd who appreciate the well-made drinks and French menu. When you want to avoid the very young Östermalm crowd, this is a good place to head.
Cadier Bar
The Cadier Bar is unlikely to ever become your local, decked out as it is with plush velvet and ornate chandeliers, however, it's exactly what you want for a treat. Combine this with an incredibly friendly staff and crowd and...hang about, maybe we w
Absolut Ice Bar
The Absolut Ice Bar serves vodka in glasses made of ice to patrons in big warm winter coats. Only a limited number of people can enter, so phone ahead to make sure you can get in. It's a gimmick, of course, but an extremely popular one.
Vassa Eggen
In a way, Vassa Eggen shouldn't be this good. It's close to hip Stureplan, and has a wildly fashionable interior and a clientele to match, so to find that the food is so good comes as something of a pleasant surprise.
Tranan
This Odenplan favourite is crowded all weekend with everyone from students to retirees. For herring or meatballs, it's a good choice. In sharp countrast to the bistro upstairs, the bar downstairs is fiercely fashionable, and pulls in a younger crowd
Teatergrillen
Teatergrillen, located close to the thespian world of Stockholm, treasures the performing arts and has made them into its primary motif. The backstreet location means the clientele have come looking for it as opposed to simply dropping in off Sturepl
Riche
If you want to eat here on a Friday or Saturday, you'd be well-advised to book. The place can be so busy that it's impossible to even get in, let alone secure a table. The crowd tends to be affluent and exuberant.
Restaurangen
Stockholm, like many other Northern European cities, oves its concept dining. There's a thrill, an attraction and something rather subversive not being part of the norm. Essentially this is high-end tapas-style dining - choose a selection of dishes a
Peacock Dinner Club
The windows are blocked out so that no one can see in or out, which is a common feature of Asian restaurants. The idea is, that once inside you enter a different realm, which may seem like a trick, but we're all for the tricking if it tastes this goo
Operahuset
For the best classical French cuisine in the most opulent classical Swedish setting, it's hard to outrank Operahuset. As befits a place known for public performances, there's a sense of high drama about the place. Food, and patrons, are rich. It's no
Nox
Seen from the outside Nox looks wonderfully dark and decadent. Inside the black-and-green colour scheme creates an atmosphere that's both fasionable and faintly sinister. Attracts a curious mixture of guests from pre-clubbers getting a cocktail to of
Mooncake
It's worth traipsing down a drab sidestreet to find this place. The food is affordable and splendid, the decor simple and free of the kitsch trappings that spoil so many Asian restaurants. As a result, it's now been open and popular for over a decade
Mathias Dahlgren
This restaurant is one of the most desirable, exclusive places to eat in Stockholm. If you manage to sneak yourself in with bribes and contacts (or through booking well in advance) then dive into the grey velvetine seats and embark upon a food sensat
Lo Scudetto
A reliable, understated restaurant that may not be the most fashionable place in the city, but does what it does extremely well.
Lisa Elmqvist
Saluhall in Östermalm is a redbrick 19th century covered market that sells some of the best produce in Stockholm. It's also home to this Lisa Elmqvist, a family-run business that serves incredibly fresh traditional seafood. An excellent lunch sp
Kungsholmen
Away from the crowds and swathes of generic shopping in Ostermalm and Norrmalm Kungsholmen may be just the ticket.
Koh Phangan
Considering how many Swedes regularly travel to Thailand on holiday, it's surprising that there aren't more good Thai restaurants on the city. This one is famous for its exuberant interior decoration. There's no Swedish minimalism here, just lots of
Halv Grek Plus Turk
Sometimes when you're in the far north of Europe you need some food from the southern edge of the continent. This is the place to come when you prefer some stuffed vine leaves rather than meatballs. It's a cheering, cheerful spot, that's particularly
Haga Forum
If you were to take the bus to Arlanda airport, you'll stop briefly at Haga Forum, which was formerly owned by SAS. The typically Scandinavian building is on the edge of Haga Park, so you can easily go for a pre- or post-meal stroll. The restaurant i
Grill Ruby
Gamla Stan has no shortage of tourist trap restaurants. Thankfully, this isn't one of them. The food is quite international, and so are the patrons, but many Stockholmers come here too.
Grill
A wide variety of choice with regards to comfort and cooking styles, Grill caters to the whim of every diner. A refreshingly new and unfussy restaurant.
Gerda’s
One of two first-class seafood restaurants in the great redbrick indoor market in Östermalm. It's always a pleasure to browse the market, and eating here is equally enjoyable. Needless to say, with its location in the marketplace the fish is inc
Fyra Knop
With its extremely honest décor and food, this creperie doesn't aim too high in what it offers, that being very good in itself. Easy to get to, there's no good reason to miss this out despite its lack of grandeur.
Fredsgatan 12
The menu has categories such as Light, Nature, Ocean, Meat and Sweet. An unusual approach to the menu, as befits an unusual restaurant. At night the terrace is one of the hottest open-air bars in the capital. The restaurant is mightily fashionable, b
Eriks Bakficka
Maintaining true Swedish roots amongst the flourishing trends of the area, the traditional home-cooking is even more thrilling in the knowledge that it's a local well kept secret.
Edsbacka Krog
Devote an entire evening to appreciating the country comfort and renowned culinary excellence of the chef, in the restaurant's relaxing and wholly unpretentious setting.
East
A core part of the East Asian culture is based on simplicity and the hard chairs and floor seating provide the pure and proper way to eat the typical food.
Den Gyldene Freden
This is one of the most historic restaurants in town, known for its beautiful, ancient interiors and fine food. If you don't fancy a full meal here, there's a tiny little bar at which you can have a glass of wine and soak up the 18th century atmosphe
Bistro Ruby
The problem with Gamla Stan is the fact it's Stockholm's tourist central. The pretty cobbled streets and quaint architecture draw those in search of 'ye olde Stockholm' and because of that the restaurants are often over-priced and poor in food. Bistr
Den Gamle och Havet
This family-run restaurant is deservedly popular thanks to welcoming service and excellent food. It's almost always busy so be sure to phone ahead. For those nights when you are really hungry it's perfect.
Bistro Jarl
Some come for food, others come for a bottle of champagne. But the crowd is always entertaining here. It may not be as popular as nearby Riche, but the crowd is much the same: affluent 30somethings who often start their evenings straight from the off
Bistro Berns
The charm of the historical setting doesn't outclass the excellence of the food. There's a sense of the theatrical about the place: everyone is well-dressed as befits one of the most impressive dining rooms in Stockholm. Don't miss a drink in the coc
Bakfickan
A hidden gem offering a relaxed atmosphere and excellent Swedish food. A very popular business lunch spot during the week, it's also also one of the best places to get a late-evening meal.
Akki Sushi
In humble surroundings, Akki Sushi manages to create an atmosphere of real excitement based on the food alone: light and fluffy tempura, delicate sashimi, and many other sushi dishes that will continue to lure you back.

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