Want an Irish Breakfast? Course you do. At least you do if it’s the one at 4Fourteen in Sydney. Executive chef Colin Fassnidge hit on a winner when he whipped up this little dish; a fried duck egg, chorizo, prosciutto and black pudding. Reduced to its component parts, you might be intrigued, but when it arrives at the table in its little frying pan, you’ll be sold. As to its Irishness, well, we’re not going to judge. But it’s a perennial crowd pleaser nonetheless. As are many of the dishes on the menu here.

Small and large plates festoon 4Fourteen’s menu, so be sure to come with friends you don’t mind sharing (read: getting messy) with. Maybe also bring friends with little appetites; all the more for you. You’ll be happy to know that the nose-to-tail phenomenon is still alive and well here. The pig tail, in particular, is a winner (ginger glazed and served with corn and avocado). Pork is indeed a repeat appetite-tickler in many dishes (we’re looking at you, suckling pig sausage roll), but you’ll find all manner of critters to tuck into, from soy-poached chicken and corned beef to smoked eel with whipped mullet roe.

You’ll most likely see more dishes you want to try as they’re brought to your neighbours too – the set up at 4Fourteen is communal, with long tables running down the length of its stylish space. Although, happily, there’s not a bench in sight, rather bistro-style wooden chairs. Much more civilised. 4Fourteen might be big in size, but it feels intimate; everyone getting stuck into delicious dishes, the sound of great music and happy chatter bouncing off the rough-finished brick walls (hung with some pleasingly abstract contemporary art). It’s a great combination, and one that keeps pulling in the punters.