Duck up a side street and squeeze into one of Surry Hills’ growing stable of funky haunts and one of the most beloved of Sydney’s Italian restaurants. Packed elbow-to-elbow, the place is always literally humming with diners, so be sure to book early either by phone, email or through their website. Inside, Berta seems bigger than it actually is due to some cleverly-placed mirrors, but it’s chaotic nevertheless and best avoided if you’re searching for an intimate spot for a tête-à-tête. The blackboard specials chalked up on the wall and wine list are both an homage to all things Italian, with small plates of suckling pig, lentils or lamb, and the deliciously warming oxtail broth with wild green tortellini. Everything is designed to share and is reasonably priced. Even the wine is affordable – which might explain the maddening queues – but don’t leave without testing out the heavenly cocktail of prosecco with campari sorbet. La dolce vita in a glass.