Its trend-setting, tattooed chef/owners Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate also own Bodega, and after introducing Sydney to tapas done the way it should be done, they’ve moved onto succulent meats, cooked asador-style – dining out in Sydney will never be the same. It’s dinner and a show here, as carcasses meet their flamey death over a fruitwood fire, crucified on a metal brace. Carve up some Victorian Suffolk lamb shin or six-hour cooked suckling pig, and slice it up on your chopping board, with lashings of piquant chimichurri sauce. Let the rockabilly-dressed hostess Sarah Doyle or waitstaff recommend other tapas-style dishes to share. Upstairs there’s another bar and a moody lounge area, with antique football tables, sumptuous Chesterfields and paintings of Eva Peron. You could easily spend a night up here with a group of friends or having an intimate tete-a-tete with a foxy date. Estella is on tap and stellar cocktails like the Palermo Hollywood with tequila, apple juice, vanilla, sage and cinnamon pack a potent punch. For dessert, don’t forgo Porteño’s Argentina-meets-Australia mango pavlova, smothered in the sinfully sweet South American dulce de leche and a smattering of peanuts.