The 110-seat restaurant might have aged gracefully, but the interiors were given a nip and a tuck in 2007 to keep up with the other restaurants in Sydney, with sturdy leather banquettes and white-linen tablecloths, sleek wooden ramp and photographic murals by Earl Carter and David Band. Under Perry’s watchful eye, the restaurant has aged extremely well and functions like a well-oiled machine. From the re-filling of bread and topping-up of mineral water, to thoughtful wine pairings, there are few restaurants in Sydney with such flawless service. Perry is one of Australia’s best-known celebrity chefs and his fanaticism for fresh, fine produce means you could bet your last dollar on your mother that each and every one of the five- or eight-courses in the grand tasting menu will be wickedly delicious, like the supple squid ceviche with bacon, lime and coriander, or slow-roasted farm lamb with heirloom carrots, medjool dates and carrot soufflé. All the seafood is sustainable, too, meaning you can guzzle it down with a clear conscience – particularly the sustainable shark fin soup, made sans shark.