A destination for the more earnest, less yuppie arty set. Kuku was one of the first private member clubs in Tallinn – and it still has the air of an exclusive nightspot, with its black bay tables, low lights, a string of subterranean rooms organized around the main bar, and a small stage for live music. Although the really trendy set moved on a while ago, you still feel as if you’re rubbing shoulders with the film-makers, writers and Gauloise smokers of the next generation.

Mellow without being grungy, this low-lit club is now open to all – an unsung hideout full of regulars – although don’t expect an extravagant welcome: everyone here knows each other already, and the bar menu comes in Estonian only. The bar dates back to 1935, and is connected to the artists’ studios in the building above and the artists’ café on the ground floor. Kuku serves hearty, good quality Estonian meals at very affordable prices, and puts on live music on weekends.