Another Estonian-run ‘ethnic’ restaurant: Tallinn entrepreneurs are so talented at mimicking the cuisine and culture of other countries that you often cannot tell that there is not a foreigner in sight. In this case, Caucasian cooking and ambience are done with conviction and perfectionism. Even the waiters seem a little imperial: older and more polished than the average, with little Georgian moustaches.
rnSoft jazz and low lighting add to the charm – imagine yourself as a laid-back Russian official on the Empire’s southern coast and you’re almost there – and although the interior is absolutely modern, a few choice decorations do the trick.
rnThe food is good – Must Lammas (literally ‘Black Sheep’) specializes in grilled meats but also offers the stuffed peppers and olive leaves, onion salads and meatballs typical of the region. It’s not haute cuisine, but the dishes manage to be both hearty and delicate at the same time – perhaps a legacy of the (real) Georgian chef who trained the kitchen staff at the beginning, seven years ago. All meals start with a free shot of vodka. Ask for a table on the mezzanine.