Full of Estonian charm as you would like to imagine it, Vanaema Juures (‘grandmother’s place’) is hidden behind a heavy wooden door, its presence signified only by a heavy frying pan and a single, picturebook egg. Descend a little stairway to a tiny, homely dining room. Although it is less than a decade old – and there is no grandmother involved – this little whitewashed den is busy all year around with regulars as well as more discerning tourists.

The small, tunnel-like room is decorated in a classic, folksy style, which draws its inspiration from the period of the first Estonian republic (the 1920s), and is full of black and white photos and period bric-à-brac.

A good selection of Estonian food covers meat, fish and vegetarian dishes as well as traditional favourites such as salted or pickled fish and hearty soups. Vanaema Juures manages to be smart without being expensive.