The self-styled esoteric barchef in control of this dimly-lit chamber toils to cook up his culinary-inspired, molecular gastronomic beverages. And boy, is it a labour-intensive palaver, with all the blowtorching, foaming, dusting and dry-icing going on.

The hallowed altar/bar is lined with liquid infusions, herbs and a hacked-at iceberg. Choose from a list of sweet, sour, savoury and molecular cocktails (averaging 18 bucks, escalating up to $45) and be patient (here, it’s more about the essence of thyme than time being of the essence).

Better still, sit at the bar and watch the master at work. Favourites include the molecular ‘Mad Man’: a tobacco-infused bourbon, presented on black slate with three cubes of tobacco and cherry jelly and a mini cauldron emanating ‘cigar mist’.