This is the only bar on Ossington that passes the cat-swinging test. And on the subject of animals, they’re kept stuffed here (there’s a collection of zebra, deer and bird taxidermy hanging about). The front room has a simple and modern aesthetic with black-and-white photographs, designer light fixtures and a zinc bar – the antithesis of the bric-a-brac-filled shoeboxes of this area.

Here you can take a pew, literally, on wooden church benches, and listen to DJ-spun hip-hop and funk. The candlelit back room has comfy sofas and a space that’s also known to host film screenings and open-mic stand-up. Housed in a former art gallery, it’s fitting that it’s staffed by easy-going artist day-jobbers.

When it’s busy it’s nuts, but otherwise it’s a low-key drink with room to breathe. Patrons are clean, coiffed and uncrusty, sipping on wine, beer or absinthe.