Montreal claims to be the Canadian Mecca of the smoked-meat sandwich, so it caused much kvetching when Zane Caplansky had the chutzpah to make a Toronto version.
His beef brisket is cured, smoked and sliced on-site, then piled high onto mustard-smeared rye bread. You decide on your calorie investment by choosing fatty, medium or lean cuts of meat. It’s very tasty, but no more so than the rest of the menu.
For those with a taste for Jewish home-cooking, the huge list of deli fare runs the gamut from a bagel, lox and cream-cheese breakfast platter to chicken soup with matzoh balls for lunch; dinner could be meat loaf or liver and onion, with sides of kishka, knish or sweet gefilte fish. There’s a spacious seating area with suitably low-key, diner-style décor, including original terrazzo floors.