This is industrial chic, bringing urban edginess to the Toronto restaurant scene, it suits the locale right down to the concrete ground. White walls, steel pipes and reclaimed wood bounce around the sound of appreciative chatter from a glamorous crowd, while waiting diners at the long bar are seen to by one of the city’s top mixologists. There’s a nod to nature with the antler chandelier dripping with Swarovski crystals, hanging over a central communal table that divides the 5000-square-foot space.

The Canadian menu changes daily with highlights of caribou and bison, but Paul Boehmer’s cult dish – Quebec pan-seared foie gras – is a constant. You can watch him labour with love at the far end of the restaurant, where a retractable garage door to the outside must be heaven for hot, toiling kitchen staff.