Molto Italiano, flickering candlelight comes as standard at Cinque. The interior is a slice of pure Naples, from raffia-bottomed wine bottles to faded plaster and mish-mash of memorabilia. It could have been there for a hundred years, but was actually designed by local artists Dani Affolter and Thomas Ott a sprightly decade ago.

A family affair, Sven Behrendt mans the stove whilst his wife and mother-in-law extend a warm welcome to their guests. The menu is as traditional as you would expect and oh so good; think Campania Mozzarella di bufala served with ripe tomatoes, home made pasta with a array of sauces, tender veal cutlet with sage and lightly grilled bream with spinach. Simple and delicious, this is food that transcends season and fashion. In summer, the action moves to the delicate white metal tables spilling out onto Josefstrasse.