A cosy Italian bistro, so intimate you can eavesdrop on fellow patrons, 40 Dean Street is something of a Soho stalwart. Thanks to a sleek makeover, the family-run eatery looks smart and polished but retains the laid-back charm that’s made it such an allure for the area’s lunching media bods for the last 20 years.

Its wood panelled walls are accented by cobalt blue, flanked by rows of squishy banquettes and polished marble tables, creating a stylishly inviting space. But it’s the traditional, seasonal and exceptionally well-priced Italian dishes that are 40 Dean Street’s real draw. Wafer thin pink bresaola intermingles with a tangle of wild rocket, shards of salty Parmesan and truffle oil. Tender parcels of homemade fresh lobster ravioli in a shellfish bisque carry all the flavours of the Mediterranean. There’s lamb chops lovingly roasted with rosemary and honey, served with crushed potatoes and a lively green pesto. For dessert? Stay on piste with classics like tiramisu and zingy lemon sorbet.

40 Dean Street’s drinks menu reads like a roll call of Italian icons; Negronis, Bellinis and summer-conquering Aperol Spritzes. The wine list is modest but well curated with all of Italy’s greatest hits; full bodied Tuscan reds and refreshing Sicilian whites. Polish off your Soho lunch or pre-theatre dinner with a cheeky limoncello or grappa.