Even the smallest bites yield big reactions at this sophisticated, wine-focused Mediterranean spot at the intersection of W 3rd and Crescent Heights. In keeping with its name – short for appellation d’origine controlle, the French system of labeling wine – oenophiles delight at the lengthy and impressive wine list, not to mention the well-informed suggestions of the attractive wait staff. Charcuterie and fine cheese aficionados will be particularly pleased, as will anyone with an affinity for brave flavor combos, for which chef Suzanne Goin has a particular knack. Just a taste: Dungeness crab salad with corn pancakes, gnocchi with lobster and pancetta, and heavenly brioche with prosciutto, gruyére, and egg from the wood-burning oven. Plan on ordering about three small plates per person, and place your implicit trust in the kitchen.