Al Vino Al Vino is one of the wine bars in Rome which is perfect to while away the hours with friends. Known affectionately as ‘Da Luca’ by the arty Monti residents who treat this little enoteca like their own living room, it takes its adopted moniker from the ebullient, if a little dipsomaniac, Luca, who runs the place seemingly haphazardly, but to great success. This is a grown-up yet lively local institution, ever popular and serving wines by the bottle and glass with great plates of cheese and ham carved up from behind the small bar, and light meals if you just can’t be bothered to move. (This is likely to happen once you settle in.) Turn up early evening and you’re bound to make friends with all and sundry, picking up a spot of local gossip along the way as well. The bar itself is an old pharmacy – small, cosy and authentic and still supplying a tonic of sorts. The only potential problem is that it lacks any outside seating, but the low-key atmosphere is one of the most charming in Rome. You’ll be smitten.