Beloved of French celebs and American tourists, this is an out-and-out classic, serving traditional food (that doesn’t mean steak frites) in the heart of St-Germain. Allard is one of those bistro institutions where nothing much has changed in 75 years: the red banquettes, stained-glass windows and zinc-topped bar are all present and correct, as are the handful of elderly regulars (and waiters) who have been eating/serving duck aux olives at Allard since Georges Pompidou’s day. Let the bow-tied staff set the pace – they know what they’re doing – and take your time over your snails and roast Bresse chicken. The lunch and dinner menus may seem dear, but they’re great value for such faultless food. Our top tip: order your tarte fine aux pommes when you’re ordering your main.