This famous music hall, B. Leza, is one of the best places to hear live music in Lisbon. Named after one of Cape Verde’s biggest producers, whose son happens to own the premises; the name is also a play on the Portuguese word for ‘dance’. Key players from the region’s music scene regularly perform in this extraordinary venue.

Now worn and crumbling, this former 16th-century palace is nonetheless stunning. Cabaret tables fill the lively main room, which despite its size has the feel of a smoky jazz den. An outdoor courtyard filled with plants offers cool relief on a summer’s night.

A cheek-to-cheek dance system operates on the dance-floor, so expect to get up close and personal with strangers. A single woman is likely to attract more attention than she bargained for, but pestering men are for the most part harmless. Most fascinating is the Shirley Valentine syndrome so prevalent in the club; frustrated middle-aged housewives make a beeline for nubile African boys. Wonderful on all levels.