Ignore anyone that turns their nose up at this place and tells you it’s just for tourists – they’re probably just trying to head you off at the flume queue at Atlantis. In the bustling old part of Dubai, it’s the only fairy-lit eatery hanging over the water, and so pretty easy to spot, but keep an eye out for the nearly-concealed entrance. The mezze – falafel, kibbeh (balls of chopped meat and spices) and piping hot sambousek (stuffed pastries) – are all as good as you’ll find at most Lebanese cafes and are cheap and filling. The shisha and fresh juices are fine too, but they’re not the reason you’ll want to linger. From every single one of the outdoor tables, you get a great view of the Creek and the dhows that sail up and down it. It’s a charming spot and best reached by abra – a budget two minute ride across the Creek – a far preferable water-based ride to a shark-infested death slide.