San Calisto may be one of those cheap as chips and a little down-at-heel bars in Rome, but you can’t help but love it. Just don’t expect too much finesse. There’s an original 1950s interior, football posters from the last century and lighting that would make even Sophia Loren look a little wan. Stop for coffee or ice cream during the day, or while away the evening sitting outside with a motley crew ranging from the young and beautiful to the slightly rough around the edges (so don’t be surprised if things end up getting quite chatty). Try a sgroppino (a lemon sorbet doused in vodka), an affogato (ice cream literally ‘drowned’ in liquor) or the chocolate ice cream – unofficially heralded as the best in the city. The bar staff are friendly, rowdy and really rather bonkers, but make friends with them at your peril – your servings of alcohol will be unbearably strong.