Sam and Eddie Hart’s original restaurant Fino (33 Charlotte Street, W1; 020 7813 8010) was a shoo-in for the race in best Spanish restaurants in London. Now, though, it just feels like a warm-up for the main event. That being Barrafina: everything about the restaurant – which the brothers opened in 2007 – is bang on, from the food to the concept to the décor. Modelled on the iconic Barcelona tapas joint Cal Pep, there’s an L-shaped metal bar with just 23 stools and an open kitchen, where chefs furiously chop and cook. The zippy menu is heavy on grilled seafood – clams, langoustines, and giant prawns – plus tuna tartare, fabulous Spanish ham and pitch-perfect renditions of tapas-bar staples such as croquetas and egg tor- tillas. It’s a turn-up-and-wait number – sometimes even for 30 minutes (at peak times the place attracts queues of voracious media folk) – but cold Seville beer and the smell of pristine shellfish being given a dose of flame and garlic mean it’s hardly an onerous experience. In summer, battle it out for one of the eight al fresco tables and watch the beau monde go by.