Barroco should be tacky, but somehow it manages to carry off a certain elegance. The interior displays a mixture of colonial style and French classicism, enhanced by oversized architectural features, which give the narrow space a dynamic funkiness. Upstairs, a room has been styled as a faux library – aimed at fat-cat cigar-smokers rather than academics. The principally Brazilian menu, imbued with further South American influences, offers an amazing range of tapas and home-made tortillas to die for, all complemented by a carefully crafted wine list drawn from the region. Later in the week, supremely talented bossa nova bands really charge up the atmosphere. The informal, family-run vibe is primarily maintained by the older mama, who supervises an array of hip, young Brazilian cousins who buzz around, chatting to each other and to the dressed-to-the-nines Brazilian diners in their native tongue.