Curious about what it’d feel like to dine inside an ornate jewellery box? Simply head to Berners Tavern. The restaurant’s interior is opulent enough to suit the tastes of a Tsar, with its walls full of gilt-framed paintings, soaring ceilings, and a towering, backlit bar. It’s funny, then, that the food isn’t just accessible: it treads into the realm of comfort eating. The celebrated Jason Atherton is behind the dining programme, and his classic dishes – like the high-low “Egg, Ham, and Peas” – populate the menu. Pappardelle with game ragout was sticky rich and rib-sticking, while the Cereal Killer is an adult cocktail styled like a kid’s milkshake. On the Afternoon menu, pick and mix from sweet and savoury dishes like crisp chorizo croquettes, refreshing peach and raspberry basil sorbet and a wonderfully indulgent Shipwreck tart, or order a bag of brownie bites to go. It all goes to show that Berners Tavern doesn’t take itself too seriously, despite its lavish looks.