That name makes quite a claim – since there are an ungodly number of Turkish kebab shops in N16 alone – never mind London. But no other than the great trencherman Charles Campion, of The Evening Standard and The London Restaurant Guide, backs up its veracity. He declares this busy ‘distinguished kebab shop’ in Stoke Newington his takeaway of choice for their doners, made from shoulder meat, with just the right spicing and no additives. These are doners that, unlike many pitiful examples on offer elsewhere, still taste great stone cold sober. The kebab shop in question also happens to be wonderfully well run, with a crew of eight kebab assemblers behind the counter at busy times to keep the line moving, is spotlessly clean and a civilised place that thoughtfully offers you wet wipes for use after your well-packed pita.